NIGHT VISION
SURVEILLANCE SCOPE



Night Vision Surveillance Scope, retail $9.99 (www.uxcell.com...)
Manufactured by (Unknown)
Last updated 01-30-08








These are low-powered (4X magnification I believe) binoculars with a couple of twists: they have green tinted lenses and a slightly greenish incandescent flashlight built in.

The focus is somwewhat adjustable, but the distance between the eyepieces is not - but for $10, who gives a rat's patootie?
(Hey, that's my rat, give me back his patootie!!!)

This product is sold as the "Night Vision Surveillance Scope" - but that is at least a little misleading, as there are no photomultiplier tubes of *ANY* type in it...but for just a hair under $10, you honestly didn't expect to get **TRUE** night vision binoculars, did you?

What these binoculars are good for though is helping you see at short distances (I'd guess under 25 feet) in the dark, thanks to the built-in flashlight that's aimed at the area you're looking at through the eyepieces.

Regarding the two photographs above: The upper photograph shows the binoculars with the illuminator head stowed (retracted); the lower photograph shows them with the illuminator head extended.


 SIZE



You'll need to feed these binoculars a couple of AAA cells first (see directly below), and THEN you can go find that raccoon that's been getting into your garbage can at night (but be careful; raccoons can be aggressive and can inflict a nasty bite!)

During the daytime, use these as you would use other binoculars.
To bring the object(s) you're looking at through the eyepieces into focus, turn the focusing wheel located between the eyepieces.


To turn the light on for nighttime use, there are two ways:

1: On the lower left side of the top of the binoculars, you'll see a red thing. Slide it to the right to turn the light on, and slide it to the left to turn the light off.

2: On the lower right side of the top of the binoculars, you'll see another red thing. Slide it to the left, and the illuminator assembly will rise from the top of the binoculars and then automatically turn on. When finished, gently press this piece down until it clicks; the light will automatically turn off.
When the illuminator head is extended like this, the light is noticeably brighter.



To change the batteries when necessary, turn the binoculars upside-down, unscrew & remove the screw holding the battery door on with a phillips screwdriver, and set the screw aside. Swing the door up & remove it, gently place it on the ground, and kick it into the garden so the hungry, hungry praying mantids will think it's something yummy for their insect tummies and subsequently strike at it...O WAIT!!! YOU'LL NEED THAT!!! So just set it aside instead.

Remove the two AAA cells from the chamber, and dispose of or recycle them as you see fit.

Insert two new AAA cells into the compartment, orienting each cell so its flat-end (-) negative faces the spring in the chamber for it.

Place the battery door back on, and screw in that screw you removed a few moments ago.
Aren't you glad you didn't kick that battery door into the garden with all those hungry, hungry praying mantids now?


Here is what a praying mantis looks like.
I found this guy on the morning of 09-08-06 clinging to the basket of my scooter.


To change the bulb, follow these steps:

1: Slide the red thing on the lower right of the top of the binoculars' body to the left (so the illuminator head lifts away from the body).
2: Use a small phillips screwdriver to remove the frontmost two screws from the underside of the bulb cover.
3: Push the bulb cover straight out.
4: Remove the old bulb (by pulling it straight out - DO NOT TWIST) and stomp on it...or just throw it away if you're averse to breaking things. Use pliers or a small standard screwdriver to help pull it out if necessary.
5: Insert a new bub into the bulb holder; being certain the "legs" on the new bulb are straight. Again, DO NOT TWIST IT!!!
6: Slide the bulb cover back on, and insert & tighten the two screws you removed earlier.

Light bulbs are not yet recyclable; that's why I did not offer that option.



These binoculars are of all-plastic construction, so "The Smack Test" really wouldn't be appropriate here.

Same with "The Toilet Test", because the product is not waterproof or submersible. There are no environmental seals (O-rings) visible on them, so they are not water-resistant. Therefore, water, milk, diet vanilla Pepsi, cold (or hot) coffee, urine, ice cold fizzy root beer, disposable douches, disposable enemas, tranny fluid, gasoline, diesel, jet fuel, brake fluid, motor oil, or other liquids could get inside. So please try not to drop them into creeks, rivers, ponds, lakes, oceansides, docksides, snowbanks, puddles of rhinocerous pee, tall cold glasses (or short lukewarm glasses) of milk, slush piles, mud puddles, tubs, root beer floats, toilet bowls, cisterns, sinks, cups of coffee (hot *OR* cold), fishtanks, dog water dishes, old yucky wet mops, wall-mounted porcelain urinators, leaky water heaters, busted garden hoses, or other places where water or water-like liquids might be found. And you'll probably want to cover them up or otherwise get rid of them (such as by putting them in a pocket or bag) if you need to carry them in rainy or snowy weather.

A little rain or snow probably wouldn't hurt them though, so you need not be too concerned about using them in lightly to at most moderately bad weather.

If they fell in water and you suspect they got flooded, disassemble them as you would for a battery change, dump out the water if necessary, and set the parts in a warm dry place for a day or so just to be sure they're completely dry inside before you reassemble and use them again.

If they fell into seawater, got thrown into a glass of milk, if they fell in a root beer float, if somebody squirted a Massengill brand post-menstrual disposable douche or a Fleet brand disposable enema at them (and hit them with the douche or the enema), or if somebody or something peed on them, rinse all the parts out with fresh water before setting them out to dry. You don't want your binoculars to smell like seaweed, sour milk, flowers, fresh butts, or rotten piss when you go to use them next. Besides, salt (from seawater, disposable douches, disposable enemas, or urination), lactic acid (from moo juice), glycerol (from antifreeze), or sugar (from root beer & ice cream) can't be very good for the insides.

The light produced by the Night Vision Surveillance Scope is a distinctly greenish yellow-white, but not nearly as dim as many other two-AAA or two-AA cell flashlights. So yes, they would indeed be more useful in dark situations than many other two cell incandescents - if you needed to use the binoculars as a stand-alone flashlight that is.

The distance between eyepieces (measured from the center of the lenses") is 2.5", give or take a millimeter or two.
My ruler is transparent and many of the markings are worn; that's why there is a variance of a mm or two.



Beam photograph on the test target at 12".
Measures 53.4cd on a Meterman LM631 light meter.



Photograph taken through the eyepiece...the eyepiece has a much smaller diameter than my camera's lens.


Spectrographic plot
Spectrographic analysis of the light in these binoculars.


ProMetric analysis
Beam cross-sectional analysis.
Image made using the ProMetric System by Radiant Imaging.






TEST NOTES:
Test unit was purchased on the Uxcell website on 11-25-07 and were received on the afternoon of 12-05-07.

Product was made in China.
A product's country of origin really does matter to some people, which is why I published it on this web page.


UPDATE: 00-00-00



PROS:



CONS:



    MANUFACTURER: Unknown
    PRODUCT TYPE: Binoculars with light
    LAMP TYPE: Incandescent (bipin) bulb; 2.5 volts 300mA
    No. OF LAMPS: 1
    BEAM TYPE: Irregularly-shaped medium spot
    SWITCH TYPE: Slide switch on/off
    CASE MATERIAL: Plastic
    BEZEL: Plastic; lamp & reflector protected by plastic window
    BATTERY: 2xAAA cells
    CURRENT CONSUMPTION: Unknown/unable to measure (presumably ~300mA)
    WATER RESISTANT: Very light splatter-resistance at maximum
    SUBMERSIBLE: No
    ACCESSORIES: Neck strap (already attached)
    WARRANTY: Unknown/not stated

    PRODUCT RATING:

    Star Rating





Night Vision Surveillance Scope * www.uxcell.com...







Do you manufacture or sell an LED flashlight, task light, utility light, or module of some kind? Want to see it tested by a real person, under real working conditions? Do you then want to see how your light did? If you have a sample available for this type of real-world, real-time testing, please contact me at ledmuseum@gmail.com.

Please visit this web page for contact information.

Unsolicited flashlights, LEDs, and other products appearing in the mail are welcome, and it will automatically be assumed that you sent it in order to have it tested and evaluated for this site.
Be sure to include contact info or your company website's URL so visitors here will know where to purchase your product.



WHITE 5500-6500K InGaN+phosphor 
ULTRAVIOLET 370-390nm GaN 
BLUE 430nm GaN+SiC
BLUE 450 and 473nm InGaN
BLUE Silicon Carbide
TURQUOISE 495-505nm InGaN
GREEN 525nm InGaN 
YELLOW-GREEN 555-575mn GaAsP & related
YELLOW 585-595nm
AMBER 595-605nm
ORANGE 605-620nm
ORANGISH-RED 620-635nm
RED 640-700nm
INFRARED 700-1300nm
True RGB Full Color LED
Spider (Pirrahna) LEDs
SMD LEDs
True violet (400-418nm) LEDs
Agilent Barracuda & Prometheus LEDs
Oddball & Miscellaneous LEDs
Programmable RGB LED modules / fixtures
Where to buy these LEDs 
Links to other LED-related websites
The World's First Virtual LED Museum
Legal horse puckey, etc.
RETURN TO OPENING/MAIN PAGE
LEDSaurus (on-site LED Mini Mart)



This page is a frame from a website.
If you arrived on this page through an outside link,you can get the "full meal deal" by clicking here.